Japanese whisky, nihonshu (sake), and beer are popular worldwide, but one bar in Tokyo is working to reintroduce locals and visitors to doburoku, one of Japan’s oldest and most controversial drinks.
Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery, located in the Nihombashi neighborhood of eastern Tokyo, opened this specialty bar to highlight doburoku’s unique flavors. This area thrived during the Edo period (1603-1868) when boats transported sake shipments.
Since 1928, Heiwa Shuzou has been producing sake in Wakayama Prefecture and has now chosen this upscale location to offer a rare tasting experience. Before you visit to try a glass, here’s what you need to know about this historic drink.
What Exactly Is Doburoku?
The history of doburoku is as murky as the drink itself. Often regarded as the ancestor of modern sake, the term 濁酒 translates to “cloudy” or unrefined liquor. To differentiate this turbid alcohol from the clearer sake, two categories are often used: seishu (清酒), or clear sake, and doburoku (濁酒).
The key distinction between sake and doburoku lies in their production methods. Sake requires a yeast starter called shubo and involves adding three main ingredients—steamed rice, koji (moldy rice fungus), and water—over several days. In contrast, all ingredients for doburoku are mixed simultaneously with the yeast starter, resulting in a sweeter liquid with a lower alcohol content.
Why Is Doburoku Considered Controversial?
Doburoku has existed alongside rice cultivation in Japan for centuries. It was the drink of choice for farmers and Shinto priests, known for its simple brewing process. Homebrewing was widespread until the end of the Edo period, when the new Meiji government implemented strict regulations to control liquor production and taxation.
By 1855, there were 459 doburoku producers in Edo (present-day Tokyo). However, with the Meiji restoration, homebrewing was restricted. A licensing system was established in 1882, and by 1899, homebrewed liquor was completely prohibited, leading doburoku to be classified as mitsuzoushu (密造酒), or “secretly produced alcohol.”
Despite the prohibition, doburoku remained available, especially in Shinto rituals. After World War II, the Korean beverage makgeolli—a close relative of doburoku—became popular due to sake shortages. In 2003, the Japanese government began allowing inns and restaurants in designated deregulation zones to sell doburoku commercially, and as of 2021, 193 establishments across the country were authorized to do so.
The State of Doburoku Today
Tokyo’s Sake Hotaru opened in 2015 as the first legal venue to offer doburoku in the capital, with public sales commencing in late 2016. The Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery, which opened in June 2022, is another prominent venue for this traditional drink. Norimasa Yamamoto, President of Heiwa Shuzo, reports that about half of the bar’s patrons are international visitors, who frequently inquire about the differences between sake and doburoku, its production time, and its unique characteristics.
In addition to doburoku, the brewery serves its own sake and beer, but it only accepts non-cash payments. The drink is known for its intense flavor, often compared to cheddar cheese and the noni fruit.
For those unable to visit Japan, doburoku can be sampled closer to home at Kato Sake Works in Brooklyn. However, owner Shinobu Kato notes that “the context doesn’t exist here,” as many Americans are unfamiliar with doburoku. Most sales occur at the taproom, where customers can enjoy the drink by the glass or purchase bottles to take home.
Source: CNN
